Is Organic Cotton Really Sustainable?

Have you ever wondered if paying extra for an organic cotton garment is really worth it? While cotton is a natural and biodegradable fiber, it’s also one of the most environmentally demanding crops. But is organic cotton any better?

With the rise of greenwashing and the global trend of glorifying “organic” products, we are more skeptical than ever. Let’s dive into the truth behind organic cotton and see if it’s truly worth the investment!

Key takeaways

1. Benefits and Challenges: Organic cotton has clear environmental advantages, like reduced water and pesticide use, and improved soil health. Yet, its lower yields may need more land, water, and energy, potentially increasing greenhouse gas emissions.
2. Certifications: To ensure true sustainability, look for well-known certifications like GOTS or OCS. These verify that the entire production process meets organic standards.
3. Quality: Higher prices don’t always mean better quality, as organic cotton can vary in durability.

Conventional cotton

Let’s start with the basics. Conventional cotton is a soft, breathable, and highly absorbent natural fiber. It’s also strong and resilient, making it easy to blend with other fibers (like polyester) to enhance its qualities. These features make cotton a versatile and popular choice in the textile industry. Don’t believe us? Just check your wardrobe and you will see how many of the pieces you love have cotton!

But like every good story, there’s always a twist. Conventional cotton is often called ‘the thirsty crop,’ and we’re not talking about the Friday-night kind of thirst! It takes thousands of liters of water to grow conventional cotton, and even more to dilute the large amounts of pesticides and fertilizers often used in its farming process. Unfortunately, it doesn’t stop there. These chemicals often wash into waterways, contaminating water supplies and the environment, posing serious health risks to local communities.

Organic cotton

According to the Organic Trade Association (OTA), organic cotton is such cotton which is grown using methods and materials that have a low impact on the environment. This means without the use of toxic pesticides and synthetic fertilizers. So far, so good. Let’s explore the three main benefits of organic cotton.

1. Less water consumption

Growing cotton accounts for 69% of the water footprint of textile fiber production and the majority is grown in countries that are already facing severe water stress. Some argue that organic cotton is less efficient because it would tend to produce a lower yield compared to conventional cotton crops and that it ends up requiring more water. However, the opposite claim appears to be the scientific consensus.

A life cycle analysis found that organic cotton reduces water consumption by 91% compared to conventionally grown cotton. Also, organic soils need less irrigation, since 80% of land producing organic cotton is located in predominantly rainfed areas.

A T-shirt produced with conventional cotton would use around 9,855 liters of water compared to 845 liters for organic, and a conventional cotton pair of jeans would take 45,051 liters of water compared to 4,236 liters with organic. Impressive, right? So, if the biggest concern about conventional cotton is water consumption, then its organic counterpart is a huge improvement!

2. Less chemicals, less pollution

Conventional cotton production uses 2.5% of the world’s cultivated land, yet it accounts for 16% of all insecticides sold globally. Despite being diluted to “acceptable levels” (at least legally) most of the toxic chemicals that end up out in the environment can remain present in water and soils for many years. Also, long-term exposure to some of these chemicals can lead to many health problems, including impaired memory, severe depression, cancer, birth defects, and infertility.

Since no toxic chemicals are used in the growing of organic cotton, water pollution and runoffs are reduced. This protects the flora, fauna, and people that depend on the local water supply. Yet, there is some concern regarding this issue. A study has shown that, when done on a large scale, organic cotton farming could produce more greenhouse gases than conventional farming due to the combination of lower yields and heavy use of machinery. Less than 1% of all cotton produced is organic, which leaves significant room for improvement to avoid this negative impact!

3. Healthier soil

It is common for conventional cotton producers to grow the crop in monocultures and use synthetic fertilizers to manage pests and boost soil fertility. But these methods can actually end up damaging the soil’s structure making it more prone to erosion. Why is it healthy soil so important? Because it works like a sponge! It soaks up water during heavy rains and floods and holds onto it during droughts. Plus, healthy soil slowly releases nutrients, which plants can absorb quickly, reducing nutrient loss and preventing runoff that could pollute waterways.

Organic cotton takes a different approach: it works with nature, not against it. Organic farming can support the health of soils, ecosystems, and people by relying on ecological processes, biodiversity, and cycles that are adapted to local conditions, rather than relying on potentially harmful external inputs. Farmers use natural fertilizers like compost, farmyard manure, and castor meal to improve soil structure, increase organic content, and nourish their crops.

Organic cotton farmers

When it comes to farming, the good news is that healthier soil from organic cotton farming doesn’t just benefit the environment; it helps farmers too! With richer soil, they can grow other crops alongside cotton, providing an extra source of income and a more stable, diverse, and abundant food supply for themselves and their communities.

Yet, transitioning to organic farming is not without its challenges, unfortunately. The transition period, which often lasts three years, can be a significant burden for farmers to manage independently. During this time, they may experience lower yields as they work to rebuild soil health and adopt new farming practices. And this is without even mentioning the high cost of organic certification and the strict rules governing organic farming, which often restrict the use of conventional inputs, add to these difficulties.

To make the shift to organic farming worthwhile, farmers need strong market signals and long-term commitments from brands and retailers. This means fair pricing that accounts for the challenges of conversion and ensures that any price premiums reach the farmers. The journey to organic farming should be a shared responsibility, with financial partnerships that support growers through every step.

From the land to your closet

So we have the raw material, what about the journey cotton has to take to become that beautiful t-shirt hanging in your closet?

The path from organic cotton fields to the clothes in your closet involves several steps. That’s why it’s really important to understand what “organic” truly means. Unlike terms like “natural” or “sustainable,” the core principles of organic farming have been legally regulated. This ensures all farmers who want to sell what they grow as organic must meet a common baseline. Now, while the core principles of organic farming are legally regulated, once cotton leaves the farm, it undergoes a range of processes—many of which are water-intensive and involve toxic chemicals. This means that an “organic cotton” label may refer only to the farming method and not the post-harvest processing!

To ensure the entire production process meets strict sustainability standards, look for certifications like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or the Soil Association logo. Textile Exchange’s Organic Content Standard (OCS) is also a very recognized certification for organic textiles. These standards track the organic cotton from the farm to the finished product, ensuring that the fibers used comply with the requirements set by organizations like the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM).

Is organic cotton a better quality option?

Before wrapping up and sharing our final thoughts, let’s take a moment to focus on quality. Unfortunately, when buying organic cotton garments, higher price doesn’t necessarily mean better quality. Organic cotton is often made from shorter-staple fibers, resulting in rougher, less durable fabrics. While soft, high-quality organic options like Supima and Pima cotton do exist, they are rare and expensive.

Final thoughts

Now you know: organic cotton is a complex and multi-layered fabric that with long-term investment can bring great benefits to the fashion industry, and our planet. Environmentally, it offers some clear advantages like reduction of water and pesticide use and improved soil health. Yet, its lower yields mean it requires more land, water, and energy, potentially increasing greenhouse gas emissions. Assessing the environmental impact of cotton also involves knowing its source, which is difficult due to traceability and certification issues.

If you want to be a responsible organic cotton shopper, look for reputable certifications. Prioritize traceable and high-quality cotton, and avoid cheap organic options. Also, caring for cotton properly (cold water washing, air-drying) extends its lifespan. When you’re ready to dispose of it, consider responsible options like resale, donation, or recycling.

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Do you own any garment made out of organic cotton? What do you think about it? Let us know in the comments below!