Polyester is the most widely used fiber worldwide. You will find it in shirts, jeans, shoes, and practically everything we wear. Thanks to its low cost and versatility, polyester has revolutionized fashion and made clothing more affordable for many. However, the environmental impact of polyester is raising several alarms. Does this mean we need to stop wearing polyester altogether? What should we do with the polyester clothes we already have? Hold up – don’t rush to your closet yet!
In this post, we will delve into the history of polyester, its unique properties, and its environmental impact. We will also explore why it should not be so easily demonized by understanding that sustainability is not one-dimensional. Let’s dive into the world of polyester!
A Quick Look at Polyester’s History
Polyester is now so integrated into our lives that it is hard to think of a time when it was not used. Yet, its history began less than a century ago, in the mid-1930s, when W.H. Carothers and his team at DuPont first created it. Despite this early development, DuPont decided not to pursue further research into polyester at that time and it wasn’t until 1941 that a group of British scientists expanded on this work, creating the first polyester fiber and obtaining a patent for it. DuPont eventually purchased the rights to the patent and sold it under the brand names: Dacron® and, later, Mylar®.
Polyester’s commercial production took off in the 1950s and was first introduced to the American public in 1951. Advertised as a technological solution to “nature’s shortcomings” for clothing and household fabrics, polyester fabrics were seen as a way to lessen the dependence on the variability of natural textile producers. It became widely popularized in the post-war boom during the 50’ and 60’ and quickly became a major player in the textile industry. The rest is history!
What Is Polyester and What Are Its Properties
Polyester is a synthetic fiber made through chemical synthesis using polyethylene terephthalate (PET). In simple words, it is a kind of plastic that has a wide range of applications. Its durability, affordability, and ease of care made it popular in various forms, from clothing to home furnishings and industrial uses.
According to the Textile Exchange 2023 Materials Market Report, polyester accounted for 54% of total global fiber production in 2022 (twice as much as cotton!), and it is still the most produced fiber. What is it that makes this fiber so attractive that it is consumed so massively?
1. Durability
Polyester fibers are quite strong and resilient, making them resistant to tearing and stretching—unlike cotton and other natural fibers. Polyester can withstand significant wear and tear and does not require special care, making it ideal for heavy use. This is why most outdoor clothing is made entirely or partially out of polyester.
2. Wrinkle Resistance and Shape Retention
Polyester is both wrinkle-resistant and elastic, allowing it to retain its shape and resist stretching out. This property is advantageous for clothing that needs to maintain a tight fit, like yoga pants or sport bras. Since it naturally resists wrinkling, it is an excellent choice for clothing that requires minimal ironing and maintains a neat appearance.
3. Hydrophobic Nature
Polyester repels water, which helps wick moisture away from the skin in sportswear, keeping us dry and comfortable. Its ability to resist moisture also makes it stain-resistant. However, polyester’s moisture resistance makes it less breathable so, if you sweat while wearing polyester, the fabric can trap moisture, leading to a hot and sticky feeling. Due to its low absorbency, polyester dries quickly, another property that makes it ideal for outdoor and activewear.
4. Thermoplastic
Polyester is thermoplastic, meaning it can be melted and reshaped when heated. This property allows for the creation of permanent pleats and creases in fabrics, enabling beautiful designs such as pleats. But this also means it is a flammable material and will melt if it comes into contact with a flame. Keep in mind that drying polyester fabrics at high temperatures can permanently damage them.
5. Insulating Properties
Polyester can retain heat, which is beneficial in cold-weather clothing. This is why we often see winter jackets made of polyester.
The Environmental Impact of Polyester
Despite its many uses and advantages, the rising rates of polyester production, use and disposal are becoming a hot topic and causing environmental concerns.
Production
One of the primary environmental issues with polyester lies in its production process: it is energy-intensive (for every 1 kg of polyester produced, 14.2 kg of CO2 is produced), requires large quantities of water and relies heavily on petroleum, a non-renewable resource. Additionally, the polyester manufacturing process involves chemicals that can be harmful to both the environment and humans if not properly managed. Polyester dyes, particularly disperse dyes, are water-insoluble and have a complex molecular structure that makes them hard to decompose. This is a problem as wastewater from textile factories often contains residual dyes, which can be toxic to local ecosystems and human health.
Post-Consumption Waste
Although polyester’s microplastic pollution is quite significant (like with all synthetic fibers), it is its persistence after consumption what is raising alarms. Unlike natural fibers like cotton, which break down over time and avoid clogging up landfills, polyester is non-biodegradable. It does not decompose easily, leading to long-term environmental persistence. The widespread use of cheap and accessible polyester fabric has exacerbated environmental waste issues throughout the garment industry.
Are There Eco-Friendly Alternatives to Polyester?
Some brands are making efforts to recycle polyester from post-consumer and post-industrial waste, to promote a circular economy in the textile industry. One example is Save the Duck, who uses RECYCLED PLUMTECH® paddings made of 100% recycled polyester from PET bottles in its jackets. However, the current recycling rates are low. According to the Textile Exchange 2023 Materials Market Exchange, the global recycled polyester (rPET) fiber production volume decreased from around 9 million tons in 2021 to around 8.6 million tons in 2022. Factors contributing to this decline include the increasingly competitive market for plastic bottles as feedstock, insufficient investment in textile-to-textile recycling, and the growth of virgin fossil-based polyester.
The Many Faces of Polyester in Fashion: When To Choose It
Assuming that we could easily replace polyester with natural alternatives is overly simplistic. There are many factors to consider: price, availability, suitability, performance, not to mention that natural fibers also have their own significant environmental impacts. Here are some scenarios where choosing polyester can be a smart and practical decision.
Athletic and Outdoor Gear
For gym apparel, polyester’s moisture-wicking and quick-drying properties are unmatched. Unlike natural fibers like cotton, which absorb sweat and become heavy and uncomfortable, polyester remains light and dry, providing superior comfort during physical activities (see for example Patagonia’s Pack Out Hike Tights). Additionally, polyester’s durability and resistance to moisture make it also a go-to choice for outdoor clothing like parkas and windbreakers, which are designed to keep you dry in adverse weather conditions (see for example Patagonia’s Airshed Pro Pullover).
Speciality Garments
Polyester’s ability to retain shapes and resist wrinkles makes it ideal for pleated fabrics and garments that require a structured appearance or intricate designs. Natural fibers often lack the stiffness needed for permanent pleats and shapes, making polyester a preferred choice for such designs.
While similar effects can be achieved with natural fibers like silk, it would be prohibitively expensive for most people. For example, Sezane’s Dune skirt, a 100% polyester pleated skirt, costs $120, whereas a similar Dior pleated mid-length skirt in 100% cotton costs $3,000. This clearly highlights polyester’s affordability while maintaining the desired aesthetic.
Everyday Wear
For office attire and casual wear, polyester offers the durability and ease of maintenance that our busy lifestyles require – let’s be honest, who has time to iron these days? Polyester is resistant to wrinkles, stains, and shrinking, making it a common material in casual and work clothing. Also, for these types of clothing, polyester is often blended with natural fibers like cotton to enhance fabric properties while keeping costs low.
Bags and Backpacks
Once again, because of its low price, durability, and moisture resistance, tote bags, workout bags, and backpacks are often made from polyester or polyester blends and are a smart choice.
Balancing Benefits and Impacts
Two things are certain: first, polyester’s environmental impact cannot be denied; second, polyester is here to stay (at least in the short to medium term) so we have to learn to live with it as consciously as we can.
Sustainability is not one-dimensional and neither should be the debate around polyester. A shirt may be 100% cotton but: Who made it? Are they paid fairly? Where was it made? Under what conditions? Is it a high-quality item? How long do you expect it to be in your closet? These questions highlight the broader aspects of sustainability: ethical production, fair labor practices, and product longevity.
Why demonize polyester when, given the current economic and historical context, eliminating it is not feasible? This kind of fatalistic visions and analysis that only focus on negatives without considering the broader context only serves to dishearten and shame. So, to have a more positive impact on both the environment and society, consider asking the following questions when buying clothes that contain or are made entirely with polyester:
- Does it make sense for it to contain polyester? If it is activewear, choosing polyester (or even better, recycled polyester) may be a smart choice. If it is knitwear intended for winter use, a 100% wool sweater might be a better option.
- Who made it and how? Ask the seller or check the brand’s website for information on their ethical practices and production. If the brand is committed to ethically making their garments, then they should have this information readily available.
- Is it something you genuinely need or just an impulse purchase? Reflect on whether you genuinely need the item or if it’s an impulsive buy. If you are unsure, take some time to reflect before making a decision.
- How should you care for it? How often should you wash it? Read the care labels to understand how to maintain the garment properly. This will help extend its lifespan.
- Is the quality good enough? Try to prioritize quality over design to ensure that it will last many years. Check for signs of poor construction, like loose threads, which may indicate a lack of durability.
Like everything in life, nothing is entirely good or bad. It is all about understanding where the use of polyester is beneficial or convenient and where it is better to avoid it. We encourage you to be critical and conscious of your decisions.
Will your polyester consumption change after reading this post? Let us know in the comments below!
