Beware of Greenwashing: What is it and how to avoid it

In a world where consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the environmental impact of their actions, showcasing green credentials has become a must. A study has shown that people are more likely to spend money on companies and brands seen to be ethical[1]. However, as consumer interest in ‘sustainable’ products increases, so does greenwashing.

Brands are wide aware of two things: One, that being socially conscious sells; and two, that there is a huge loophole around the actual meaning of ‘sustainable’, so they can market an item as ‘green’ without giving a clear definition of the term and without being held accountable for it. This means that, sadly, some of those green credentials that we mentioned before are just smoke and mirrors, and that it is up to us to learn how to differentiate between what is true and what is not.

What is greenwashing?

“Greenwashing is the process of conveying a false impression or providing misleading information about how a company’s products are more environmentally sound.”[2] The term was coined by American environmentalist Jay Weservelt after he noted that some hotels were asking guests to reuse their towels to “save the environment”. The truth behind this? They just wanted to lower their laundry expenses![3]

Today, many brands are rebranding themselves as “champions of the environment” trying to convey the idea that they are ‘greener’ than their competitors.[4] But we must be skeptical and know that companies are probably greenwashing us when they make unsubstantiated claims about how sustainable their products are or how by buying them we are “saving the planet”.

Why is it so dangerous?

Because it is based on distraction (the customers’) greenwashing can be extremely dangerous. It is all about investing more time and money in marketing products rather than actually ensuring that they are sustainable. This, at the expense of important economic, health, and social facets. Not only is it misleading, but it is also not helping to further sustainable practices. Since greenwashing misdirects well-intentioned consumers down the wrong path, environmental problems remain the same (or even get worse).

Greenwashing in the Fashion industry: The H&M “conscious” collection case

Many small and independent brands are reinventing themselves as genuinely ‘sustainable’. However, some big fish are not following this trend and are spending millions on marketing tactics to promote their ‘green’ collections. This is the case of Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) ‘Conscious’ Collection.

Norway’s Consumer Authority has recently ruled that H&M was under investigation for its ‘Conscious’ collection. According to the deputy director Bente Øverli, H&M was “not being clear or specific enough in explaining how the clothes in the Conscious collection [were] more ‘sustainable’ than other products they sell” and concluded that “consumers are being given the impression that these products are more ‘sustainable’ than they actually are.”[5]

What H&M is doing with its ‘Conscious’ collection is the very definition of greenwashing: exploiting the vagueness of the term to appear more sustainable while increasing sales and profits. We cannot stress enough how problematic this is, especially if we consider how fast fashion is causing disastrous consequences to our environment and workers.

How to identify greenwashing in the fashion industry

Just like fashion itself, greenwashing comes in many forms and shades which are sometimes difficult to spot. We know that checking and re-checking green claims can be overwhelming so here are three indicators that can help you spot when a brand is trying to greenwash you:

1. ‘Conscious’ or ‘sustainable’ collections are an “add-on” to their business rather than its core. This means that the company continues to profit from products made in an unsustainable manner which (obviously) cancels the green ones.
2. If all you can see are vague words and zero facts or figures supporting a green claim, run!
3. The band uses generalized and exaggerated marketing claims, such as “buy this and save the planet”. These are highly misleading and clearly made for commercial gain.

How to avoid being greenwashed?

By now, we are all wide aware of the importance of environmental conservation and sustainability, and that we cannot depend only on companies to do this. It is up to us -consumers- to take the lead and stop the mindless consumerism that corporations are creating. With simple steps we can make a huge difference so here are some rules of thumb that will help you avoid greenwashing:

1. Don’t let fluffy language fool you!
2. Transparency is the first step towards accountability so look for scientific-based facts and figures. Truly sustainable fashion brands will give information about their suppliers, production facilities, and materials used.[6]
3. Look for certifications. Cradle to Cradle Certified, Bluesign, Fair Trade Textiles Standard, Global Organic Textile Standard, and Organic Content Standards are some of them and offer an approved standard across the supply chain.[7]
4. ‘Natural’ and ‘vegan’ don’t necessarily mean ‘sustainable’. Fibers such as viscose, rayon, and bamboo are ‘natural’, however, the way these are sourced sometimes is not that sustainable.[8] The same happens with vegan materials since most are made from synthetic, petroleum-derived fabric.[9]
5. Look at the whole production chain. Truly sustainable brands have a holistic approach to sustainability and integrate it in every step of their supply chain, from the design to the shipping and packaging of the product.[10]
6. Educate yourself and fact-check claims through some research! The Internet is filled with reports, investigations, and updates on these issues, so take advantage of them. A simple 5-minute research can make all the difference.

Now that you know all this, remember: You have the power of choice. Use it wisely.

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What are your thoughts on greenwashing? Have you ever been greenwashed? How? Let us know in the comments below!