Being one of the oldest-known natural fibers, chances that linen has crossed your fashion road are pretty big. Long before we lounged in fancy summer linen dresses, prehistoric men were busy working on the fiber that would later change the world.[1] Today, this high-end, elegant, and durable fabric can be found almost everywhere, even in your wallet. And no, we are not talking about the wallet itself: Did you know that US Dollars bills are 75% cotton fiber and 25% linen?[2] Amazing!
Just as we did with Tencel, we are going to look at fashion from the inside out trying to answer the same big question: Is linen sustainable? Let’s find out!
What is linen?
Linen is an ancient, natural fiber constructed from the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum, in Latin), and whose natural colors include ivory, ecru, tan, and grey.
How sustainable is linen?
It is said that linen is the champion of sustainable fibers, and this is for a few reasons:
- Water consumption: The main thing that makes linen a sustainable fabric is the low water consumption for its production. In fact, 60% less water is required to grow flax compared to cotton.[3]
- Little waste: Although not strictly for fabric production, the flax plant can be used almost entirely, generating virtually no waste (you might have seen flaxseed oil or ground flaxseed food products in the supermarkets).
- Gentle with soil: Flax can grow nearly everywhere, even on poor soil that’s unsuitable for food crops. In some cases, it can even rehabilitate polluted soil.[4] What is more, most is grown in northern Europe (namely, France, Belgium, and The Netherlands), which cuts down transportation emissions for the European fashion industry.
- Carbon absorption: Flax plants have a high rate of carbon absorption. Specifically, 250,000 tons of CO2 are retained each year by European flax fiber.[5]
- Reduced use of other resources: When it comes to resources like energy, pesticides, and herbicides, linen production uses considerably fewer than cotton or polyester.[6]
- Biodegradable and compostable: As the natural fiber that it is, it’s fully biodegradable and compostable (of course as long as chemicals, dye, or synthetic fibers haven’t been added),[7] so if you no longer use a linen garment, consider sending it to a composting organization!
- Long-lasting: Although it is a little bit more expensive than cotton, linen is much longer-lasting and will live long in your wardrobe.
Other benefits
If you haven’t fallen in love with this fiber yet, here are some other reasons to love linen that go beyond its sustainability:
- Linen is well known for its functionality and versatility. Due to its moisture-wicking and temperature regulating, it can be worn in warm and cold weathers all year round.[8]
- Although it leans towards the “luxurious” side, depending on the thread count, it can be more or less expensive making it suitable for all audiences.
- It dries quickly, which means you don’t have to use the dryer as much.
- It is antibacterial, gentle to the skin, and can perfectly hold dye colors.[9]
- Linen, like wine, gets better with age. Its thick, crisp texture becomes softer over time and doesn’t shed or show signs of wear as other fabrics do. It is a great piece of investment!
Not so fast! Not everything is rosy
By now you probably know that anything that is mass-produced has an environmental impact. Sadly, linen is not the exception and its production can have two main drawbacks:
- Use of dangerous chemicals: Although linen doesn’t need much fertilizer or pesticides, it doesn’t mean it’s never used. To separate flax fibers from their stems, manufacturers tend to use acids that harm the surrounding wildlife[10] and can lead to soil degradation and erosion. Also, heavy chemical processes are used in the dying or bleaching processes.
- Working conditions: Knowing how your clothes are made is just as important as knowing who made them. Linen is labor-intensive and without fair and safe labor conditions it can turn into rights abuse. While the cutting or pulling of the flax plant from the ground is in most cases a mechanized task, hand-harvesting is still commonly used. Also, in cases where chemicals are used in the processing of the flax plant, workers are exposed to them, which can lead to serious health issues.
Organic Linen, a safe escape
A safe escape from these two drawbacks is to buy “organic”. This assures you that none of the harmful chemicals are going to be in your garments and that workers are being taken care of. However, we need to beware of greenwashing, so looking for certifications is key. Some examples are the USDA, the EU’s organic certification programs, and Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) (which is the most consumer-recognized and trusted certification).[11]
The big question: Is linen sustainable?
Absolutely! Even when not organically grown, linen is considered a sustainable material.[12] After knowing all the above information, no wonder why, after millennia, this fabric still ends up in our wardrobes.
Do you want to invest in some sustainable linen?
Here are some brands worth checking out:
Do you have linen clothes? Did this post make you want to buy some? Let us know in the comments below!
