When we talk about plastic pollution we tend to think of bottles, bags, or containers floating in the sea or lying on landfills. But the fight against plastic has a smaller but not less dangerous enemy: microplastics.
Plastic particles have infiltrated the most remote and seemingly pristine regions of the planet while becoming a special ingredient in the food we eat and the water we drink. But… what does this have to do with our clothes? In the following paragraphs we will analyze the role of the fashion industry in the generation of these microscopic enemies.
What are microplastics and microfibers?
Microplastics are minuscule pieces of plastic that are the remnant of larger debris. Microfibers, on the other hand, are a type of microplastic that is released when we wash synthetic clothing, i.e., polyester, nylon, or acrylic.
Impact on the environment and on human health
Plastic in general is one of the biggest environmental polluters of our time. Indeed, studies have shown that only in the last two decades, the world has produced as much plastic as during the rest of history and that the industry is set to grow by 4% a year until 2025.[1]
Microplastics are a huge part of this problem. Because they break down into smaller pieces over time, microplastics can pass through filtration processes and disseminate into the environment, particularly the oceans. Regarding fashion, “it’s estimated that over a third (35%) of all microplastics released into the world’s oceans are from synthetic textiles.”[2]
Microplastics have become a major concern, not just because of their catastrophic effects on the species and the marine ecosystem, but also because they’re harmful to humans. How? They “can act like a sponge and attract hydrophobic substances of concern from the surrounding (marine) environment … which subsequently could enter the food chain if ingested by marine animals.”[3] Studies suggest that people that eat European bivalves can ingest over 11,000 microplastic particles per year.[4]
And as if this were not enough, microplastics’ negative effects on ecosystems could affect the economic activities that depend on them.
Microplastics and the fashion industry
Thanks to huge global campaigns the world has woken up to the plastic crisis. And while many of us are trying to reduce our plastic consumption, there is one thing that you’ve probably overlooked: your clothes!
We have plastic-derived materials to thank for the rise of fast fashion. Let’s get real, this not-so-new way of fashion wouldn’t have been possible without polyester. Sadly, this is one of the reasons why the fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world.
Around 50% of our clothing is made from plastic and up to 700,000 fibers can come off our synthetic clothes in a typical wash.[5] It shouldn’t come as a surprise then that over a third of all microplastics released into the world’s oceans are from synthetic textiles.[6] Just to give you an idea of the dimension of this problem, households in the United States and Canada could collectively release some 878 tons of microfibers annually.[7]
What can be done?
Since the 1990s, synthetic fiber production has been on the rise, and we get it: polyester is cheap, cost-effective, and easy to mark up.[8] We would be foolish to think that we can get rid of them altogether. Today’s clothing consumption is so high that it would be almost impossible to replace all synthetic materials with natural fibers. Yet, neither we nor brands or governments can continue to ignore the microplastic pollution problem. So…what can be done?
1. Fashion brands
Of all the players involved in the release of fashion-derived microplastics, fashion brands can have the most impact. From the design to the manufacturing stages, brands must take responsibility for minimizing future microfiber releases. These are some of the methods that brands can apply to reduce microfiber shedding:
- Produce clothes with less harmful materials that ensure minimal release of synthetic microfibers into the environment.
- Produce durable garments, so that they remain out of landfills for a long period of time.
- Ensure a circular system by designing and producing garments that can be recycled.
- Brush the fabrics used for garments and use laser and ultrasound cutting during manufacture.
- Invest in research to create industry-wide solutions.
One fashion brand that has addressed the microfibers issue is H&M. The brand has focused primarily on the design and research stages. “H&M believes that brands like theirs can address microfiber pollution ‘holistically’ from design through to production, and by better-educating consumers on washing and product care.”[9]
2. Governments
A strong message needs to be sent by policymakers. Governments must get involved in the fight against microfibers and force brands to address this problem. “Currently, there are no EU regulations that address microfiber release by textiles, nor are they included in the Water Framework Directive.”[10]
Apart from drafting bills, governments should also work on modernizing wastewater treatment plants and incentivizing innovation.
3. Customers
Consumers have a huge part in this fight. Companies produce what we demand, therefore, we need to rethink our buying patterns: we shop too much and wear too little. The solution? Buy less and more consciously! This is the best way to reduce waste.
Also, becoming more thoughtful about how we wash our clothes is key, because the less we wash them, the fewer microplastics that go to the oceans. Other things that we can do are to shop second-hand and to up-cycle. Remember: you don’t need brand-new clothes to be fashionable!
4. Other industries
The fight against microplastic pollution produced by the fashion industry does not only require its efforts to succeed. Other industries must come together and cooperate, for example, detergent manufacturers and the recycling industry. “Cross-industrial agreements could help promote collaboration between industry bodies and promote sharing of resources and knowledge.”[11]
Final thoughts
Clothes and pollution shouldn’t be in the same sentence. Yet lately, they seem to go more hand in hand than usual. We need to change this, and the only way to do it is by systematic and meaningful change supported by policymakers, brands and customers, all working together.
What do you think about microplastics? Will you think about microplastics the next time you go shopping? Let us know in the comments below!
