Marilyn Monroe once said that “diamonds are a girl’s best friend,” but are they though? These precious metals make us feel on cloud nine, but don’t let the pressure difference cloud your judgment! Did you know that if your diamond wasn’t sustainably sourced, then chances are it was acquired by slave labor or underpaid workers?
Since diamond mining began in 1866, Africa (the epicenter of world diamond production) has produced almost a billion dollars’ worth of diamonds. But something doesn’t add up… Slave labor and million-dollar profits? How is that possible? The mining industry history is plagued with conflict, abuse and environment impact.
Although I will do so briefly, my objective today is not to focus on the evils of the diamond industry, but rather on the ‘sustainable’ variants that it is now offering. Because of the growing social awareness of climate change and worker rights, ‘sustainable’ diamonds are becoming an increasingly popular option. Let’s get down to business!
What’s wrong with the mining industry?
Environment
The mining industry has a long-lasting environmental impact. Here’s why: To get the ‘goodies’ it must go deep within the Earth’s surface and, once a mine is depleted, the large pit that is left eventually fills with water becoming a breeding ground for mosquitoes and malaria.[1] Improper practices (which are often used) can lead to soil erosion, deforestation, water pollution, land degradation and flooding. A perfect and unfortunate example of this impact is Angola where, because of the industry’s severe environmental effects, local populations had to relocate.[2]
Ryan Shearman of Aether Diamonds explains that “[o]n average, for every one carat that is mined from the ground, up to 250 tons of earth are removed, 127 gallons of freshwater are used, billions of gallons of water are contaminated with acid mine runoff, 143 pounds of air pollution are emitted, and countless gallons of fossil fuels are consumed.”[3] Even the most ‘eco-friendly’ mines aren’t really sustainable. Take The Ekati mines in Canada, an ‘example’ for sustainable mining that has an annual carbon footprint of more than 600 million car miles…
Blood Diamonds
On top of being an extremely dangerous, unsustainable and worker-abusive industry the diamond trade has been used to fund civil wars and fund illegitimate governments in many countries, particularly in Africa. These diamonds are named “Blood diamond” or “conflict diamonds”, terms created by the United Nations in the early 1990s. They refer to diamonds sourced in war zones, usually by underpaid or enslaved workers, that are then sold in the black market to finance rebel movements against recognized governments. Unfortunately, they still exist and are linked to horrible human rights violations.
In response to this appalling reality, governments and industry leaders around the globe gathered to develop the Kimberley Process Certification (KPC). The goal is to remove conflict diamonds from the global supply chain so member countries (over 80) must certify their diamonds as conflict free throughout each step in the supply chain. Another thing is that certified countries must only trade with other certified countries. The KPC IS the most widely accepted method of regulating the diamond trade and has made it possible for 99.8% of diamonds to be certified conflict-free, not to mention the stratospheric increase in accountability and transparency in the diamond industry.[4]
However, this process is not perfect and has many loopholes, so just be aware of this when you are buying your blings!
What are sustainable diamonds?
There are three types of sustainable diamonds: (1) lab-grown diamonds; (2) diamonds that have been ethically sourced; and (3) recycled diamonds that have been reused, reset, or resized. Let’s break them down:
Lab-grown diamonds
Lab-grown diamonds are different from traditional mined diamonds because they don’t require any extraction from the earth. This type of diamond is grown in high tech labs that mimic the million-year long process of heat and pressure involved in creating a natural diamond underground. But make no mistakes, although the process is much faster than the natural one, lab-grown diamonds are not created in a blink of an eye and can take a few weeks to make.
Now, the crux of the matter: Are these little Frankensteins real diamonds? Absolutely yes! Lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds. They have all the same physical, chemical, and optical characteristics as mined diamonds and are as durable as them. They can even be certified to prove their size, quality and provenance by exactly the same, independent gemological laboratories that also certify mined diamonds.[5] The only difference is that, for the sake of consumer transparency, lab-grown diamonds are branded with a microscopic laser mark.[6]
Note that these diamonds shouldn’t be confused with other stones like moissanite and cubic zirconia, which are diamond substitutes. Tip of the day: always double-check what you are buying!
What about pricing?
Lab-grown diamonds entail a democratization of diamonds which has a reduction in their price as a natural consequence. According to jeweler Khadijah Fulton of White/Space, lab-grown diamonds “are significantly lower priced than natural diamonds, for the same or better quality in general.”[7] We are talking about a 25-40% difference in price between one and the other.[8]
Are lab-grown diamonds as sustainable as they are pitched?
The lab-grown diamond industry is a response to decades of labor abuses and a persistent lack of transparency of its mining counterpart. If produced under optimum conditions, lab-grown diamonds can have a lower carbon footprint. Some companies have even used the term ‘carbon-negative’ in their production, basically meaning that their diamonds capture carbon from the atmosphere in crystalline form forever.[9]
However, the lab-grown diamond industry is not 100% transparent. “According to Bain & Company’s 2020-2021 global diamond report, 50-60% are produced in China using high-pressure, high-temperature technology, rather than the cleaner chemical vapor deposition technique favored in the US and India.”[10] Experts say a complete pivot to lab-grown diamonds is not the answer and that the best path forward is the one that benefits from lab-grown diamond innovation while reforming mined diamond production. Otherwise, diamond mining communities would be greatly hit since efforts will no longer be made to improve their sector and their income will be lost.[11]
Recycled diamonds
Going vintage is always a good idea if you want to generate little to no environmental impact. According to Azra Mehdi of Au Xchange Fine Gold Jewelry “although the original source of the diamonds may be unknown and they may likely have been unsustainably sourced, recycling diamonds prevents continued future harm from unethical or improper diamond mining practices.”[12] Just because something has a dark past doesn’t mean it can’t change its life course, right? So, by recycling you are getting a repurposed mined diamond that keeps you from contributing to a traditionally unsustainable and unethical industry.
Sustainable sourced diamonds
The last type of sustainable diamond is the sustainably sourced one, also known as ‘Conflict Free.’ These are mined diamonds that come from legitimate sources: mines with safe working conditions and fair pay, as well as eco-friendly practices.
Tracking the origins of a diamond is key when picking out a piece of jewelry. You wouldn’t want to unknowingly use a Blood Diamond as part of your outfit, right? A good indicator that a diamond is sustainably sourced is that it was sourced in Canada (this country typically requires that diamonds are sourced under the highest environmental and humanitarian standards), Russia, Namibia, Botswana, or South Africa. Be wary of diamonds mined in Angola, Zimbabwe or The Democratic Republic of Congo since violations of human rights in diamond mines are commonplace there.[13] The KPC is also a great tracking resource and, of course, your jeweler! Just ask them where the diamonds come from.
Here are some brands that use sustainable sourced diamonds: Salt-and-pepper, Charles and Colvard, Hume Atelier, Brilliant Earth, and Leber Jewler.
Final thoughts
The diamond industry is a complex one with social, economic and environmental implication and is the epitome of the saying that complex problems have no simple solutions.
If you are lucky enough to be able to buy or give a diamond as a gift, start by doing some research. Whether it’s a lab-grown or a mined diamond, ask the jeweler where they come from, ask for guarantees, study their origin.
I know, the diamond industry may seem very far away. Many of us have not been lucky enough to even see a real diamond in real life! But that doesn’t mean you can’t imbibe knowledge and raise awareness. Just try your best!
What do you think of sustainable diamonds? Would you buy a lab-grown diamond? Let us know in the comments below!
