How sustainable is denim?

From clothes to accessories, catwalks to countryside wardrobes, denim is everywhere: Jeans, skirts, jackets, you name it! This versatile fabric has earned its place as a staple in every closet, but with around 3.5 billion pairs of jeans produced on 2024, we wonder if our love for this trendy fabric has perhaps gone too far… What is the impact of this love? Who’s paying for it? How? Let’s start from the beginning: How sustainable is denim?

Key takeaways

1. Denim’s Origin Story: Denim’s roots trace back to 17th century France, where it was first created as “Serge de Nîmes.” Unlike popular belief, Levi Strauss didn’t invent denim but revolutionized it by adding metal rivets to work pants, creating the first blue jeans.
2. Environmental Costs of Denim: Denim’s environmental impact is significant due to water usage, pesticides, and harmful dyeing practices.
3. Social Challenges in Denim Production: Denim’s history is tied to slavery, and while slavery is now banned, exploitation remains a harsh reality in the cotton industry. Additionally, workers face health risks from chemicals and hazardous practices.
4. Spotting Sustainable Denim: Choosing sustainable denim starts with looking for certifications like GOTS, OEKO-TEX, and Fair Trade. Materials like organic cotton, hemp, or recycled fibers, along with transparent practices and durable craftsmanship, signal a commitment to sustainability.

The origins of denim: where it all began

Did you think Levi Strauss invented denim? Think again! Denim’s roots extend far beyond. The fabric was born in the 17^th century in Nîmes, France, where it was known as “Serge de Nîmes,” hence “denim”. At that point, it was a blend of silk and wool, a far cry from the “all-cotton denim” that we know today, which was first created in England and later perfected in American mills.

So, what role did Levi Strauss have in all of this? In an effort to give miners strong and sturdy pants, he revolutionized the fabric in 1873 by patenting the process of adding metal rivets to work pants, creating the first-ever blue jeans. What began as durable workwear soon became a fashion statement, and the rest is history.

How denim is made: the basics

Denim is durable, versatile, and oh-so-iconic! But how is it made? Here are the five stages of its production:

1. Raw Materials: It all starts with cotton. Once harvested (either by hand or with mechanical pickers), the fibers are separated from their seeds and compressed into bales.
2. Spinning: Next up, the fibers are turned into yarn. This spinning process aligns the fibers and twists them together to create a continuous thread suitable for weaving.
3. Dyeing: This is where the magic happens! Denim gets its signature blue color. The warp (lengthwise) yarns are dyed using indigo dye, and the weft (horizontal) yarns typically remain undyed or bleached, giving the fabric’s blue front and white back.
4. Weaving: Time to bring all together. Denim is woven using a twill pattern, where the dyed warp yarns and undyed weft yarns interlace to form the fabric that we all know.
5. Finishing: Finally, the fabric undergoes finishing processes to enhance its appearance and performance. This may include various pre-washing and distressing techniques to achieve desired textures and looks. Fun fact: what makes denim unique is its malleability because the dye doesn’t penetrate the thread buy only coats it. This allows achieving various finishes (neat, ‘distressed’, pre-worn), through methods such as enzyme washes, sandblasting, or bleaching.

Denim’s environmental impact

The environmental impact of denim depends on multiple factors, including raw materials, pesticides, dying process, and production methods. Let’s have a closer look.

Water consumption

While cotton (denim’s main ingredient) is a natural fiber, that doesn’t automatically make it sustainable. Why? Because cotton is quite a thirsty crop. To put it in perspective: a single conventional cotton pair of jeans takes around 7,500 liters of water to produce. And that’s not all, after production the wastewaters from denim is so contaminated that it needs to be treated before they can be released into the aquatic habitat.

When over 10% of the world’s population doesn’t have access to clean water to meet their basic needs, it can seem absurd how much of it is used for a pair of jeans, don’t you think?

Pesticides and dyes

Unless it’s certified organic, denim production is a bit of a dirty secret. Pesticides and harmful chemicals are commonplace and, sadly, they can be harmful to the environment, the worker’s health (take Azo Dyes for example, which are known to release carcinogenic amines) and can even pollute nearby soil and water systems, threatening entire ecosystems!

And the drama doesn’t stop there. The dyeing process is no angel either. Most blue jeans get their iconic color from synthetic indigo, which is known to have poor quality. Overall, the denim industry consumes 50 000 tones of synthetic indigo. And here’s the kicker: indigo isn’t naturally water-soluble, so extra chemicals are thrown into the mix to make it stick to denim. It’s like a toxic cocktail for your favorite jeans.

Sandblasting

Distressed jeans may be trendy, but sandblasting (the process used to achieve that worn look) not so much… Why? This technique has been raising some eyebrows as it can be extremely damaging to workers’ health if performed without suitable protective equipment. The process consists in literally blasting the jeans with sand to soften the fabric and wear them down. The health issue here is that a large amount of silica dust is generated during the process, which is inhaled by workers causing silicosis, a serious and potentially deadly lung disease.

Here’s the thing: there are plenty of safer ways to nail the distressed style, like stone washing, brushing, or lasers. But sadly, when it comes to production, sandblasting often wins because it’s easier on the budget, even if it’s tougher on workers.

People

Cotton’s roots are also controversial as there was a time when they went hand in hand with slavery (especially in the US). And while slavery is now banned in most places, exploitation is still a sad reality in the cotton industry (and by extension, denim).

On top of that, the heavy use of chemicals in cotton farming and denim production doesn’t just harm the planet, it also puts workers’ health on the line. So, while denim might be a wardrobe hero, its origins tell a different story.

How to spot sustainable denim brands

So now you are feeling overwhelmed thinking “what should I buy?” Don’t worry, we’ve got you. Here’s a quick guide to help you spot brands that are genuinely committed to sustainability and avoid greenwashing:

Look for certifications

Certifications are one of the most reliable indicators of a brand’s commitment to sustainable practices. Here are some examples of labels you should keep an eye out for:

• GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard): Ensures the use of organic cotton and environmentally friendly production processes.
• OEKO-TEX: Certifies that the fabric is free from harmful substances.
• Fair Trade Certified: Guarantees fair wages and safe working conditions for workers.
• Better Cotton Initiative (BCI): Promotes sustainable cotton farming practices.

Look at the composition

Sustainable denim brands prioritize eco-friendly materials, such as:

• Organic cotton: Grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers.
• Hemp or Tencel blends: Require less water and fewer chemicals to produce.
• Recycled fibers: Reduce waste by reusing materials like post-consumer denim or other textiles.

Examine their transparency

A truly sustainable brand is open about its practices. Check their website or labels for information on:

• Where their materials are sourced.
• Details about their production process.
• Efforts to support workers’ rights and ensure ethical labor practices.

Prioritize quality and craftmanship

Sustainable denim isn’t just about how it’s made, it’s about how long it lasts. High-quality stitching, reinforced seams, and durable materials are signs of a piece designed to withstand years of wear. Some brands even offer repair services to extend the life of your jeans, like Levi’s® Tailor Shops, MUD Jeans, Nudie Jeans and Patagonia.

Watch out for greenwashing

Some brands may claim to be sustainable without taking meaningful action (classic!). To avoid falling for greenwashing:

• Look for specific, measurable efforts rather than vague statements like “eco-friendly” or “sustainable materials.”
• Research third-party reviews or ratings such as The Pomelade (hey that’s us!) to verify the brand’s claims.
• Be cautious of brands that release “sustainable collections” while continuing harmful practices in their main line.

The Pomelade’s favorites

Denim production can come with some hefty social and environmental consequences, but it doesn’t have to! Thankfully, there are amazing denim brands that are shaking things up and putting people and the planet first. Here are three to check out:

• MUD Jeans: MUD Jeans offers circular fashion at its best. With their lease-a-jean program, you can rent jeans, wear them, repair them if needed, and send them back when you’re done. They’ll recycle them into new denim, closing the loop on waste.
• Stella McCartney: Stella McCartney’s denim collection combines high-end style with sustainable materials. Using organic cotton and innovative dyeing techniques, her jeans prove that luxury and sustainability can go hand in hand.
• Nudie Jeans: Nudie Jeans is all about transparency and responsibility. They offer free lifetime repairs, use organic cotton in all their products, and even encourage second-hand shopping with their Reuse program. They also offer repair shops!

Did you know about denim’s environmental impact? Do you think overproduction can be reduced? Let us know in the comments below!