Far from being a trend, veganism has become a philosophy and a global movement of conscious consumerism. It is a lifestyle that goes beyond an animal-free diet and transcends into all aspects of life, including fashion.
Whether it is for health reasons, love for animals, or the environment, veganism is always a fabulous way to make an impact. By eliminating animals from its shopping list, veganism not only saves millions of animals but also helps save water, reduce greenhouse gas emissions, and the spread of toxic chemicals in our soils. However, despite all these great things, ‘vegan fashion’ is not interchangeable with ‘sustainable fashion.’
While it is true that most vegan brands have, overall, a remarkably positive impact on animals and climate, it is not always like that. After all, petroleum-derived fibers are vegan, aren’t they?
A matter of definitions…
First things first, let’s talk definitions. As we said before, vegan doesn’t equal sustainability. Indeed, it’s quite dangerous to merge these terms.
Vegan fashion focuses on not harming animals. It means clothing made without any sort of animal input or byproduct. This is, no fur, leather, silk, feathers, or wool. Vegan fashion puts the well-being of animals above all, even of the people who provide non-vegan materials and the environment.
Sustainable fashion, on the other hand, wants to reduce the environmental impact of clothing by slowing down fashion production. It focuses on creating the smallest carbon footprint possible when making a garment, paying special attention to the quality and the production system.
An example of a sustainable non-vegan fashion brand is Chloé, a certified B Corp that still uses animal-derived fibers like wool or cashmere.
Vegan fashion’s relationship with plastic
Petroleum-based materials are often marketed as ‘vegan’, so vegan fashion has been often associated with plastic-heavy wardrobes. An example of this is polyester, which has largely replaced silk as a ‘cruelty-free’ alternative. But considering how toxic the production of these materials is, we can only wonder: are we being greenwashed? Well, it’s complicated.
Technically speaking plastic-derived fibers don’t have any animal input, so no animal is directly killed or tortured in their production. However, the indirect effects on the animal kingdom and the environment are enormous. First, these synthetic fibers are made from petroleum which, needless to say, is quite bad. Second, they release micro-plastics in every wash which pollute the water and threaten aquatic life. And third, the processing of materials like PVC or PU (faux leather) needs a high amount of chemicals that pollute the groundwater and poison entire ecosystems. So, we cannot still say that these materials are truly vegan, can we?
Dory Benami, co-owner of artisanal footwear brands Fortress of Inca and Huma Blanco, explains that “calling something that is plastic ‘vegan’ to promote it is false advertising. The people who are taking advantage of this term aren’t doing it for the right reasons, they’re doing it to save money and play on their customers’ emotions.”[1]
Vegan fashion and deforestation
In addition to synthetic fibers, we have semi-synthetic fibers such as rayon, viscose, modal, and lyocell, all of which are produced from wood pulp. ‘Semi’ because they derive from natural materials but must undergo chemical processing.[2]
Unfortunately, just as like with petroleum-derived ones, semi-synthetic fibers aren’t the way to a sustainable vegan fashion. In addition to the chemical pollution generated through their production (e.g., rayon production is so toxic that it can no longer occur in the United States)[3], these materials are responsible for an absurd amount of deforestation. We are talking around 70 million tons of trees per year![4]
Vegan fashion and Durability
Sustainable fashion pays special attention to the quality and durability of products. Which makes sense: the more durable something is, the further away from landfills it will be. Unfortunately, some vegan alternatives aren’t necessarily as durable as their ‘regular’ counterparts. Take for example pineapple leather, an alternative to standard leather. Although the latter is not the greenest option (learn why here), it is durable, long-lasting, and depending on the production process, biodegradable. Pineapple leather, on the other hand, has a shorter life span, raising yet more questions about how sustainable vegan fashion actually is.
Besides, lack of durability ruins, so to speak, the ‘magic’ of buying second-hand clothing. Cheaply made plastic clothing is prone to losing shape and falling apart, ultimately driving an unsustainable cycle of waste and overconsumption.[5]
Sustainable vegan alternatives
But no matter how much we love these ‘traditional’ fibers, they just cannot replace staples like leather. And we can all agree that finding a worthwhile alternative to leather is one of the biggest challenges when shopping vegan.
One thing is certain, “becoming au fait with vegan fashion means digging into the science of textiles.”[6] And that’s exactly it: Science came to the rescue and is creating alternatives that are improving by the day! So much so that sometimes you can’t even tell the difference between the real and the ‘imposter.’ Here are some examples of amazing innovative vegan and sustainable materials:
- Cork leather, made from the cork oak tree and is extremely durable and water repellant.
- Cactus leather, made from cactus and needs very little water to grow and has a great quality.
- Apple tree waste leather (FRUMAT), made from the waste products during harvesting apples.
- Mushroom leather (Muskin) is a suede alternative made from mushrooms, which are pretty easy and sustainable to grow and process and are treated without using polluting substances.[7]
Final thoughts: Look for the labels!
Thanks to the growing demand for eco-friendly vegan alternatives, shoppers no longer need to choose between sustainability, quality, and animal rights. The fashion industry can’t stop innovating and animal-free + sustainable materials continue to proliferate.
However, despite all this progress, we can’t let our guard down. As explained before, if a product is labeled as ‘vegan’ all it means is that it’s fair for the animals (and, if we consider potential indirect effects, sometimes not even that). So, besides the vegan label, you should also look for other seals that certify the product as sustainable and fair.[8] Focus on quality too, the longer you wear a garment, the longer it stays out of landfills.
Lastly, always remember that fashion is a multifaceted industry with countless steps throughout the production chain. As such, it can never be black or white, and consequently, vegan fashion is not all good or all bad. We know, it can be overwhelming, but just try to focus on shopping your values and seeking transparency.
Oh, we almost forgot! Always educate yourself 😊
Did you think vegan fashion was the same as sustainable fashion? Why? Let us know in the comments below!
