When we think about natural materials, wool is one of the first that comes to mind. It’s warm, soft, and has been used in clothing for centuries. But how sustainable is wool, really? Let’s take a closer look at what makes wool special and whether it’s truly a sustainable choice in today’s fashion world.
Key takeaways
- Wool is natural, renewable, and biodegradable, making it a strong option for eco-friendly fashion when sourced responsibly.
- Its production can have environmental and ethical downsides, including overgrazing, energy use, and animal welfare concerns like mulesing.
- Wool garments are durable, long-lasting, and need less washing, reducing their overall environmental impact.
- Look for certified wool (like RWS or ZQ Merino) to ensure better animal welfare and sustainable land management practices.
How is wool made?
Wool comes from many different animals, like sheep, goats, yaks, and rabbits, with sheep being the most common source. Sheep are usually shorn once a year in spring, and the fleece is removed in one piece without harming the animal (in principle). The fleece is then cleaned to remove dirt and oils.
Next, the wool is prepared for spinning using either carding, which creates fluffy, warm woolen yarn, or worsting, which produces smoother, more durable yarn. These yarns are woven into fabric, with patterns added during or after weaving. Finishing techniques like brushing or coating are used to enhance texture or functionality.
Australia and New Zealand have the highest sheep-to-human ratios. China and Australia have the largest total sheep populations.
Properties of wool
- Natural and renewable: Wool is grown by sheep every year, making it a naturally renewable fiber.
- Biodegradable: Because wool is made from keratin (a protein similar to the human hair), once it reaches the end of its life, it breaks down in soil or water within a few months, returning nutrients to the earth. Unlike synthetic fiber, wool doesn’t contribute to microplastic pollution.
- Breathable and temperature-regulating: Wool reacts to body temperature, keeping you warm when it’s cold and cool when it’s hot.
- Odor-resistant: Wool absorbs sweat and locks in odors, releasing them only when washed.
- UV protection: Wool naturally shields against the sun’s rays, making it perfect for outdoor activities.
- Fire-resistant: Wool doesn’t melt or easily catch fire like synthetic fabrics.
- Wrinkle-resistant and stain-repellent: Thanks to its natural crimp and elastic fibers, which help it bounce back into shape after bending or folding, wool is wrinkle-resistant. Also, its outer layer repels water and dirt, making it naturally stain-repellent and easier to keep clean.
- Soft and comfortable.
Merino wool: the go-to wool
Most clothing today uses Merino wool, which comes from Merino sheep. It’s softer, finer, and better at managing moisture than regular wool. Merino wool is also more durable and long-lasting, though usually more expensive.
Wool’s life cycle and its impact
Pre-consumer phase
Fast fashion is driven by the “take-make-dispose” system. Wool, on the other hand, fits perfectly into a circular system which is all about reducing waste and reusing resources.
It all starts at the farm: sheep eat grass, grow wool, and their fleece becomes clothing. That clothing stores atmospheric carbon while it’s being worn and used, helping reduce the impact of climate change. Wool farming can also support biodiversity and soil health. Many wool farmers use few chemicals and manage their land in ways that help ecosystems thrive.
However, this is not always the case, and wool’s impact depends on the region and practices. Overgrazing can be a problem (it can lead to desertification, soil erosion, and a decline in biodiversity), especially in cases like cashmere, where it takes a single goat a year to produce enough cashmere for a scarf. This affects not only the environment but also the communities living in the area that depend on that environment.
Turning wool into fabric can also use a lot of energy and water. Many wool products are also treated with chemical dyes and finishes that pollute water and harm ecosystems. In places with poor regulations, commercial dyeing often uses heavy metals and produces toxic waste.
However, recent improvements are promising. Regulations are stronger, and some producers are investing in cleaner technologies. There’s also been a comeback of natural dyes, including plant-based and bacterial dyes, and even a return to undyed wool in its natural color.
Consumer phase
If taken care correctly, wool clothes tend to last longer than those made from other fabrics. On average, a wool garment is worn 50% longer than a cotton one. Wool is also easy to repair, which means it’s less likely to be thrown away quickly. Since wool resists odors, it doesn’t need to be washed often, saving water and energy.
Post-consumer phase
Synthetic fibers like polyester are made from fossil fuels, and can take hundreds of years to break down. When burned or buried in landfills they release toxic chemicals. Wool, on the other hand, is biodegradable and part of the natural carbon cycle. Even the methane sheep release is short-lived, staying in the atmosphere for around 12 years, compared to centuries for fossil fuels.
Wool is also highly recyclable. In fact, it has one of the oldest recycling systems in the world, dating back more than 200 years! Recycled wool can be turned into new garments (closed-loop systems) or reused in non-fashion-related products (open-loop systems) like insulation and mattress padding.
Animal welfare
This is where wool’s sustainability gets more complicated. While countries like Australia have strict animal welfare laws, not all practices are kind. For example, mulesing (the removal of skin around a lamb’s anus to prevent flystrike which is painful and bloody) is still common in Australia. Also, as global demand rises, many sheep and goats are kept in overcrowded conditions on overgrazed land. In 2022, PETA released footage showing mistreatment of sheep during shearing in Australia.
Some alternatives, like alpaca wool, are often marketed as ethical. But even here, cruelty has been uncovered. In Peru, the leading alpaca wool producer, investigations found animals tied down and roughly handled during shearing, leading brands like UNIQLO to stop using it.
Certifications like the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), ZQ Merino, and Nativa Precious Fiber will make your life easier when choosing wool that’s been produced responsibly. These certifications also look at how land is managed, ensuring farms are supporting healthy soils, clean water, and thriving ecosystems.
So, is wool sustainable?
When it’s grown and produced responsibly, wool is one of the most sustainable fibers out there. It’s natural, renewable, durable, biodegradable, and recyclable. It lasts longer than other fabrics, needs less washing, and can return safely to the earth at the end of its life.
If you’re trying to make more eco-friendly fashion choices, wool is definitely a material to consider. Just make sure to look for certified wool and take care of your garments so they last as long as possible.
Five wool brands that we approve
- Patagonia: Patagonia uses Responsible Wool Standard (RWS)-certified wool and is committed to transparency, animal welfare, and environmental responsibility.
- Armedangels: Armedangels uses GOTS-certified organic wool, RWS wool, and is transparent about their supply chains. Focuses on fair working conditions.
- Sheep Inc.: Sheep Inc. is a carbon-negative brand using ZQ-certified wool, full supply chain traceability, and regenerative farming practices.
- PANGAIA: PANGAIA are innovators in material science, they use recycled wool, natural dyes, and partner with responsible farms. The brand also uses plant-based and bio-based alternatives alongside wool.
- ASKET: ASKET focuses on traceability, timeless design, and transparent pricing. It uses RWS-certified and mulesing-free wool.
How do you care for your wool garments? Let us know in the comments below!