The issue of sustainability has been such a hot topic in the fashion industry in the last few years that it has become part of its raison d’être…Well, at least in theory, because when it comes to reality, waste is pretty much fashion’s middle name. So much so that nearly three-fifths of all clothing ends up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being produced.[1]
Fortunately, this hasn’t gone unnoticed by today’s more environmentally conscious generation. The constant quest to become “greener” has led us to a new trend: Upcycling. But what exactly is it and why is it becoming the “new back”?
What is upcycling?
Upcycling is the process of using something already made to make it better than its original version, using a minimum of resources in its creation. When it comes to the apparel industry, this process generally starts with clothing that doesn’t fit or that is damaged, which is refashioned into wearable products.
With consumers becoming more and more conscious of their wasteful behavior, upcycling is becoming increasingly popular in the contemporary fashion industry. Why? Because it basically keeps ‘unwanted’ items out of the garbage, thus promoting the idea of circular fashion. “It means older clothes remain in circulation rather than heading to landfill.”[2]
Upcycling clothes has become so popular, it’s now an industry by itself! What used to be considered “cheap” is now seen as one of the coolest things. And why wouldn’t it? What’s cooler than being fashionable while taking care of the environment?
But make no mistake! Upcycling is not the same as recycling. The sustainable key here is that upcycling doesn’t seek out new raw materials to start from scratch. Let’s take the example of a stained cotton t-shirt. If you upcycle it, then you reuse the same fabric and turn it into…let’s say a shopping bag. Recycling, on the other hand, needs the cotton to be broken down before it is reconstituted into that shopping bag.
Pre-consumer waste…a horror story
The magic of upcycling can be used either with pre-consumer or post-consumer waste. The stained cotton t-shirt that we mentioned before is an example of post-consumer waste: the finished product reached the end of its useful life. However, when we talk about pre-consumer waste, we are referring to deadstock.[3] Let’s stay here a little longer.
“Deadstock refers to the leftover stock of a product, be it whole garments that haven’t sold or leftover fabrics.”[4] It’s “dead” simply because it hasn’t previously been worn or even sold.
Did you know that last year, the pandemic led to $166 billion to $190 billion worth of excess inventory from spring/summer 2020 collections? That is more than double the average![5]
So, we wonder… how is the fashion industry addressing this eye-watering surplus? Luckily, with the practice of burning or throwing away the excess inventory being left behind, upcycling is on the rise.
What are brands doing?
Upcycling has been a huge trend in spring/summer 2021 collections. Many emerging designers have taken the deadstock problem into their own hands and are pushing the agenda (thank God!). One example is Gabriela Hearst, who created an exclusive Retro Fit collection for London’s Selfridges using existing stock.[6] Another is Duran Lantink, who reassembles deadstock garments from brands including Gucci, Prada, and Off-White into new high-end pieces.[7] And finally, we have the one and only Reformation, who makes their pieces from rescued deadstock fabrics and upcycled clothing.[8]
Of course, it was only a matter of time before the industry heavyweights started to take note. Some of those who have made use of upcycling is Balenciaga, which in its SS21 collection 93.5% of the “plain materials” used were either “certified sustainable or recycled”; Marni, which created patchworked outerwear from existing garments; and Coach, which reworked 1970s bags.[9]
This rise is only natural if we take into consideration all the import/export restrictions imposed during the pandemic. Designers were sometimes forced to use materials they already had instead of shipping in new fabrics.
But beware of greenwashing! Using deadstock alone doesn’t make a brand sustainable per se. In fact, much of the industry is still several years away from solving this issue. However, it is a big step and helps reduce the amount of waste that ends up in landfills.
Why upcycle?
As you may already know, the apparel industry is extremely wasteful and our current “take, produce, discard” culture isn’t helping. There are way more garments produced than can be used so we are basically taking enormous amounts of resources and creating short-lived clothes that end in landfills. Just let this sink in: according to Clothes Aid, the UK sends around 300,000 tons of wearable clothing to landfills every year![10]
Upcycling is a new way of working that breaks the waste cycle. It means using significantly less raw materials, water, and chemicals and reducing carbon emissions. In two words, it helps reduce the harmful impacts of fashion production. The world is already overwhelmed with material things, why keep adding new stuff?
Also, upcycling is way better than donating to thrift shops because only about 20%-30% of donated clothing is actually re-sold.[11]
Final thoughts: Upcycling is coming stronger than a 90’s trend
Why aren’t we reusing materials that already exist when the highest proportion of greenhouse gas emissions from the fashion industry comes from the production of textiles?[12]
It is clear that making fashion sustainable requires a total change of paradigm that needs to tackle the fundamental issue of overproduction. However, we’re in a period of transition where consumers are wearing their values and embracing the uniqueness of their pieces.
Brands must accept that post-consumer waste is also their responsibility and upcycling is a huge step in the right direction. It gives the fashion industry a new life. It gives us the opportunity to merge style with sustainability.
So, let’s say “in with the old, out with the new” and tackle the environmental impact of fashion together. Let’s make upcycling the “new black”!
What are your thoughts on upcycling? Have you ever done it? Do you believe it has to be the “be black”? Let us know in the comments below!
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