The use of cashmere is not new. The first recorded use of cashmere dates back to the 14th century, but it wasn’t until the late 18th century that cashmere shawls from Kashmir and India began to be transported to Britain and France, among other Western countries.[1] The rest is history.
Thanks to the fashion industry’s democratization, the once a very expensive and luxurious commodity, has now become accessible to all. From Louis Vuitton to Uniqlo, cashmere can be found in almost every fashion brand’s collection for prices starting at barely $50 (or even less!). So, if cashmere is such a luxurious and exclusive material, who is really paying the price for it? To what extent is it ethical?
Cashmere and Animal Cruelty
Cashmere is a luxurious fiber obtained from the fleece of the cashmere goat, typically raised in places like Mongolia, China, Iran, Afghanistan, and other parts of Central Asia. There are many ways to harvest cashmere. The more time-consuming techniques, including combing or selecting, are often used to create higher-quality cashmere. However, these techniques also frequently cost more money and are more time-consuming than the traditional shearing.
Shearing is the most used technique to get the fiber, yet, it can also be the most cruel. Cashmere goats have little body fat and their coats help them isolate from the cold. If the shearing is done in winter (which is typically the case) it results in many of them freezing to death shortly after, and even if they don’t die from the cold, the shearing process is painful (here‘s a footage of goats screaming in pain while being sheared) and they are sentenced to slow and agonizing deaths when they are deemed unprofitable.
Environmental Impact of Cashmere
Unlike polyester, nylon, and other synthetic fibers, cashmere is a natural fiber so it might be tempting to say that because of this, it is a sustainable material. Unfortunately, this is not the case, or at least not at this moment in history with its current demand.
When it comes to cashmere and the environment, it all boils down to the fashion industry’s democratization because the demand has grown to a point where it is no longer sustainable to produce it. Think about this: to produce high-quality cashmere, goats need to eat a lot of vegetation, and it takes a single goat a year to produce enough cashmere for a scarf. This means that, although a natural fiber, desertification, soil erosion, and a decline in biodiversity are all part of the equation. This affects not only the environment but also the communities living in the area that depend on that environment.
This, without taking into account the carbon footprint of importing and exporting this product. As I said before, most cashmere production takes place in Central Asia, while most of its demand comes from the West. Quite a long distance.
Are there more ethical choices?
So you love your cashmere sweaters but you also don’t want to be a part of such a cruel and resource intensive industry. Good news: because of the increase in cashmere demand some brands are taking a more sustainable approach to making cashmere, after all, the sustainability of the cashmere industry ultimately depends on how it is produced.
One example is Le Kasha, a French brand founded in 1918 known for making timeless clothing that is suitable for every place and every season, using only natural materials (i.e., 100% organic cashmere, silk and linen). Le Kasha’s cashmere knit collection is designed in Paris and produced in Inner Mongolia at its Eco Label factory (GOTS & ECO label certifications). The brand works only with farming cooperatives and herders that practise sustainable grazing to ensure the preservation of the grasslands in both the short and long term.
“It’s better to keep the production in one place so you can control it and focus your efforts on it […] This also avoids large amounts of shipping which reduces harm to the environment. The increase in demand has led to cashmere being produced in non-specialist cashmere factories, which focus more on volume and less on the quality of the garment and the farmers who make it.” [2]
Mali Marciano, Le Kasha Creative director
When it comes to animal wellbeing, Le Kasha uses fully organic farming and breeding techniques to improve the quality and optimum wellbeing of the goats. Likewise, being ECO-certified guarantees that all the goats used in their production processes are well treated.
Another (more affordable) example is NAADAM, a US brand created in 2013 which works directly with herders in Mongolia to produce high quality and sustainable knitwear. The brand works to protect the planet through anti-desertification programs, local non-profit work and supplier partnerships committed to ethical and environmental standards. Regarding the goats wellbeing, “from food to providing veterinary care, [they] help provide the best conditions for the animals.”[3]
On the fast fashion front, some changes are being made. Zara uses recycled cashmere in some of its products and Asos updated its animal welfare policy and stopped stocking products using cashmere by the end of January 2019.
Merino Wool: A Viable Alternative?
To lessen the pressure from cashmere production, some brands are opting for other materials that can give a similar end product to cashmere but with less environmental impact. Merino wool, derived from the merino sheep, is cashmere’s closest competitor because, unlike regular wool, merino wool is much finer, softer and lighter.
Both merino wool and cashmere are natural fibers known for their softness, warmth, and durability. Merino wool is a versatile material well-known for its thermal insulation, moisture-wicking properties, and breathability. The main difference with cashmere is price because the latter is more difficult to produce and source. Just note that a merino sheep produces enough for 8 to 10 sweaters, while it would take approximately 3 to 5 cashmere goats to create a single sweater!
Sustainable designer Maggie Marilyn says “[m]erino is both more economical and environmentally friendly as, with cashmere, you would need four times more goats and in turn four times more land to produce the same yield.”[4]
Final thoughts
Once again, someone else is paying for our clothes. This time, not only the environment is but also animals. Cashmere cannot be considered sustainable nor ethical if goats are not treated ethically in the process. Let alone if demand continues rising as it is now.
If you can, ditch cashmere and opt for merino wool. If you don’t want to give up on cashmere, look for accreditations that ensure that animal welfare is respected and certifications like the Responsible Wool Standard or the Good Cashmere Standard.
Remember that the change starts with you: if consumers start asking for more ethical products, brands will have no choice but to offer them.
Did you know the impact of cashmere on the environment and animals? What are your thoughts on it? Let us know in the comments below!
