Is organic cotton really sustainable?

Have you ever wondered if the extra price you pay for an organic cotton garment is worth it? We all know that, despite being a natural and biodegradable fiber, cotton is one of the most environmentally demanding crops [1]. But is organic cotton any better?

With greenwashing just around the corner, skepticism has never been more in vogue, especially considering the global tendency to glorify everything that is organic. Keep reading and find out whether organic cotton is really worth it!

What is organic cotton?

According to the OTA, organic cotton is grown using methods and materials that have a low impact on the environment, which means, without the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and synthetic fertilizers [2]. So far, so good. Let’s dive into the three main benefits of organic cotton.

1.      Less Water Consumption

In sustainable fashion, water use has become a hot topic. Growing cotton accounts for 69% of the water footprint of textile fiber production and the majority is grown in countries that are already facing severe water stress [3]. It has been argued that organic cotton is less efficient because it would tend to produce a lower yield compared to conventional cotton crops and that it ends up requiring more water. However, the opposite claim appears to be the scientific consensus.

A life cycle analysis found that organic cotton reduces water consumption by 91% compared to conventionally grown cotton. Also, organic soils require less irrigation, since 80% of land producing organic cotton is located in predominantly rainfed areas [4].

A T-shirt produced with conventional cotton would use 2,168 gallons of water compared to 186 for organic, and a conventional cotton pair of jeans would take 9,910 gallons of water compared to 932 with organic [5]. Impressive, right?

2.      Less Chemicals, Less Pollution

Conventional cotton production uses 2.5% of the world’s cultivated land, yet it accounts for 16% of all insecticides sold globally [6]. Despite being diluted to “acceptable levels” (at least legally) most of the toxic chemicals that end up out in the environment can remain present in water and soils for many years. Long-term exposure to some of these chemicals can lead to many health problems, including impaired memory, severe depression, cancer, birth defects, and infertility [7].

Since no toxic chemicals are used in the growing of organic cotton, water pollution and runoffs are reduced, protecting the flora, fauna, and people that depend on the local water supply. According to the Textile Exchange, a possible impact saving over conventional cotton is a 46% reduced global warming potential [8].

However, there is some concern regarding this issue. A study has shown that, when done on a large scale, organic cotton farming could produce more greenhouse gases than conventional farming due to the combination of lower yields and heavy use of machinery [9]. So far less than 1% of all cotton produced is organic, which means that there is huge potential for improvement that could avoid this negative impact! [10]

3.      Healthier Soil and Happier Farmers

It is common for cotton producers to grow the crop as a ‘monoculture’ and to rely on synthetic fertilizers to maintain soil fertility and to manage pests. As a natural consequence, soil structure gets damaged making it more prone to soil erosion [11].

Compost, farmyard manure, and castor meal are some of the fertilizers used by organic farmers to help improve soil structure, increase organic matter content, and to feed crops. Why is it so important to have a healthy soil? Healthy soil acts as a sponge, soaking up water during floods and holding it for longer during droughts. “Nutrients are released slowly and taken up quickly by plants meaning that not much is lost from the soil through runoff and erosion into waterways” [12].

Regarding organic farmers, since the soil is healthier, they can grow other crops alongside their cotton. This represents not only an extra income for them but also a more stable, accessible, abundant, and diverse food supply to them and their communities [13].

From the land to your closet…Don’t get greenwashed!

What about the processes that cotton has to go through to become that beautiful t-shirt that is now in your closet?

After being harvested, cotton goes through several water-intensive and highly toxic processes before becoming fabric [14]. So… an “organic cotton” garment might only be referring to the organic growing method, but not to the post-production!

Look for certifications

Truly organic cotton should be grown and processed organically. To avoid greenwashing and if you are looking for the Gold standard of sustainability you should look for the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or Soil Association logos. If you find them, it means that the item in question was made with organic fibers AND was processed according to strict standards for ecological and socially responsible production along the whole supply chain [15].

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What are your thoughts on this? Do you think the extra price for organic clothing is worth it? Let us know in the comments below!